I can
honestly say I have never considered myself a very adventurous person. My ideal vacation was always just a sunny
beach somewhere. When someone would say
something about the Galapagos Islands or Machu Picchu I may have thought that
it sounded cool or interesting but really never had much of a desire to visit
either place. To me, they are both that
kind of thing other people do. However, in
just a 4 month period I had the opportunity to visit both of these places. I will admit Peace Corps has changed me. I have realized there is more out there then
just sunny beaches and clear blue water, and why let other people have all the fun when I can do it too.
So when I went home to visit in December my parents and I decided that
the next big adventure we would take would be to visit the Galapagos
Islands. All I had known about the
Galapagos was Charles Darwin and lots of animals. On travel and nature shows it always seemed
like a neat place. So I was looking
forward to the visit.
At the end of July I took a bus from Piura to Guayaquil. Not a very pleasant trip, it is overnight and
you have to go through customs on both the Peru and Ecuador sides of the
border. And as you can imagine in the middle
of the night there are not many people working, so I stood in long slow lines,
half asleep. Then my lucky bus was chosen at two random points to have the bags
inspected as well. So that means a total
of 4 times I had to get off the bus in the middle of the night. However, when I reached the city of Guayaquil
I was excited to get over to the Marriott where we had booked a room months in
advance. I could not wait for a hot shower
and a nice comfy bed to begin my week away from Chipillico and latrine building.
Later that night I went to the airport to welcome my Mom and Dad to
Ecuador. Although it had only been 7
months since the last time I had seen them, I was very anxious to spend a week
with them. There is just something about
being with my parents that makes me feel normal again and I can put Peru far
behind me for the few days that I am with them.
Plus, I was looking forward to just the time with the 3 of us.
We spent one night in Ecuador and then flew to Baltra Island, one of the
13 islands that make up the Galapagos, the following morning. The Galapagos Islands are about 700 miles off
the coast of Ecuador; you even gain an hour changing time zones. There is a lot of research that is done and
breeding of species and maintain different ecosystems in the Galapagos islands,
therefore when we checked our bags at the airport there were special locks put
on them as to not bring in any unwanted food or items that could mess up what
they have going on. Towards the end of
the flight the flight attendants all came out and opened the baggage hold above
our heads and started spraying an insecticide.
It was kind of funny, because if you were on a plane in the United
States and someone started spraying a “harmless” insecticide on a flight people
would be freaking out. Just seems like
something you shouldn’t do in an enclosed space so far up in the sky!
We arrived at a very small airport, and waited for a bus to take us to
ferry where we would then take a van to travel to the island of Santa Cruz
where our hotel was. It seemed eerie at
first. I had expected everything to be
tropical and flourishing with life.
However, the first island was very desolate and desert like. However, when we reached the marina to get on
the ferry, there was a seal waiting at the bottom of the steps as we got onto
the boat. The was our first encounter
with an animal, and it was so surprising how tame and unphased the animal was
by human presence. You could get as
close as you possibly wanted and it wouldn’t even flinch! Little did we know there was so much more to
come. The ferry was a quick ride over
incredibly clear blue pristine water.
From there we took a small bus to the hotel. Along the way we passed “Los Gemelos”, (the
twins) they are side by side volcano craters.
They are inactive and lie on the part of Santa Cruz island that is
considered the highlands. In this area
it has a drearier look, lots of clouds and some misty rain, but the vegetation
in this area was much greener, and you could find that many of the natives who
inhabit the islands have their fields in the highlands. We came down in the small town of Santa Cruz,
a neat little area of many colorful homes.
Our hotel was amongst this. Our
hotel which had sort of a Hansel and Gretel look was very charming. As we explored it seemed that most of the
hotels were very similar, there were not large chain hotels, more of small
boutique hotels, each with their own unique look.
Our hotel was only a few blocks from the main strip of Santa Cruz, where
on one end you could find Charles Darwin research center and on the other a
Marina where seals were there to meet you all day long and you could find boats
and water taxi’s to other parts of the island or other islands all
together.
We spent our first afternoon trying to get a lay of the land. We were so surprised to come across the fish
market where seals and pelicans hung around all day long waiting for the
fishermen to come in and hopefully get a chance at the catch of the day. I tried getting a little to o close to one of
the seals who turned and looked at me and barked! Just like a dog! The seals are so full of personality, each
time we would encounter one it was either they paid you no attention and you
could get close enough to touch them, or at other times, they would follow you
and almost even pose until you snapped pictures of them.
The other exciting and yet also surprising animal we encountered were
iguanas. The most interesting part was
when you came up to an iguana on a sidewalk or path they would have no
intention of moving for you, you would have to make sure you got of their
way. So unlike the behavior you
typically see out of this creature when they scurry out of your way faster than
you can blink. We saw iguanas everywhere
we went. So many that by the end of the
week we were sick of them!
At the Charles Darwin center you can also find one of the islands
biggest attractions, their gigantic turtles.
This center is famous for the turtle named Lonesome George, who we
missed by only one month, he died at the end of June, at the age of 150 years
old!!!! There was a small little plaque
in his memory.
Our first full day on the island we decided to trek out to an area
called Tortuga Bay. It was a few hour
walk from the hotel to the beach. One thing
about the islands is that it’s all natural; there are no stairs or handicap
passageways. You have to be able bodied
to do everything or otherwise you just can’t.
So we took this long trail out to the beach. The park ranger told me that the beach water
was rough but once we had reached the beach to walk another 15 minutes and we
would encounter an area to swim. As we
walked along the pristine beach of beautiful clear blue water, I saw a very
large iguana coming out of the water onto the beach. I was so excited and yelled for my Dad with
his better camera lens to come and check it out. The one thing I hadn’t realized watching this
iguana come onto the beach was that there were tons of iguanas already lying
there. I had dismissed them on first
glass as logs or sticks, but nope, they were all iguanas lying there sunning
themselves. We took tons of
pictures. Since the island is made up of
rocks formed from lava from the volcanoes that created the islands, the iguanas
would also climb up onto the rocks to sun themselves, and they match the color
of the rocks so you would just see areas with tons of heads popped up over the
rocks. It was really cool! Once the
fascination of the iguanas wore off, I looked behind us and realized through
some bushes there was this bay –like area with calm water where people were
swimming. We had brought our bathing suits;
however, there was no place to change.
For me this was no big deal, after bathing in creeks and rivers for
almost two years, changing in bushes is no big deal. But I helped my parents out with holding up
towels. The sand was so white and almost
like a powder. Since it is winter in
Ecuador the water was a little chilly, but actually refreshing and just
beautiful. As we sat in the water,
pelicans would pass overhead and land in the water. Although I have visited a few Caribbean
islands and Mexico, I have never seen water so incredibly blue and clean, you
almost feel like you personally are discovering this place for the first time,
it seems so untouched.
The next day we decided to explore the highlands of the island. This meant going and seeing turtles in their
natural habitat and exploring lava tunnels.
Instead of paying some guide to take us, we just got in a taxi (which
are all trucks), and we told him where to take us. We went to what seemed like a farm, lots of
open grassy land with cows grazing and look for turtles. First we had to change out of our sandals and
but on boots. That was a fun
experience. Then we went turtle
hunting. We found about 3 female
turtles, which are the smaller of the sex. However, in my opinion still
huge. When we got close they would hiss
and growl. And recoil into their shell
as much as they could, since they are so huge isn’t much. We got some great pictures before heading
over to the lava tunnels. I wasn’t
really sure what to expect with the lava tunnels but my Dad was excited to see
them. The taxi just sort of dropped us
at this hole in the ground and pointed to this house up on a hill and said we
would come out there. Being a little too
trusting we went for it. We went down
into this hole, and there was a rope and small lights that would guide our way
we were told. All I kept thinking is
that in Peru, this when you would get robbed!
We followed the tunnel that had been cut from this lava from the ancient
volcanoes. It was so neat, and there
were parts you would have to crawl or duck to get through. Who can say that they walked through tunnels
that were cut by lava! It had a real
creepy vibe though; there was no one or any animals or anything in these dark
tunnels. As we were told the tunnels
ended at the house on the hill, where we climbed out only to see a beautiful
view of the coast and its blue waters, and a neighboring island. We changed back into our sandals and headed
back to the hotel.
The next day we had looked over the map of Santa Cruz Island a few times
and realized there wasn’t much else to see then what we had already seen. So we decided we would do an excursion where
we would take a 2 hour boat ride over to Isabela Island, the largest of all the
islands, it also was home to the 2nd largest town and really the 2nd
inhabitated area between all the islands, Santa Cruz being the first. To be honest, we signed up, but really didn’t
know what we were getting ourselves into.
At the office they had shown us pretty pictures of the excursion and the
boat. But it was not completely
accurate. I don’t anything could really
have been prepared for what that boat ride was really going to be like. When you get out onto the open Pacific
between the islands, it’s no joke. It is
the reason Dramamine was invented! The
waves are enormous, and the small boat we were on didn’t seem made for that
kind of ocean. It was a stomach turning
two hours. There were 15 of us together
on this excursion, and when you looked around you would seen everyone with
their eyes closed hanging onto something in the case the boat would jump, which
it did a lot, to help soften the blow.
Occasionally they would make us move around shifting the weight so that
the boat would not jump as much, at one point landing more than half of us
comfortably on one side of the boat. It
was a relief to all of us to reach the other island, however, a little bit sad
at the same time knowing we would have to go back that afternoon the same way
we came. On isabela island we went first
to visit flamingos in a Laguna, then we went to a research/ breeding center of
turtles, where we saw many many turtles of all ages that were being breed and
raised to be released back into their natural habitat. And interesting fact was that a threat to the
turtle population is actually the locals killing the turtles and eating their
meat. I was surprised to hear that, it
just seemed like most everyone on the island was sensibilized to the animals
having been raised in such a famous and unique place. We also saw more iguanas, and took a small
boat ride out to an area called the Tintorerias. Where we saw penguins, the famous blue footed
booby bird. Also sharks and seals. I really loved the penguins they were so
cute. We couldn’t get that close to them
to any really great pictures. But we were
lucky when we came back into the marina, there was one swimming around below
the pier. They are so incredibly
fast. We also saw a few more as we were
sitting on the beach, they almost looked like ducks from far away but then you
can see the difference when they dive and how fast they move.
We also got a lunch with our excursion, it reminded me of what is called
“menu” in Peru. It is a lunch that a
restaurant decides in advance that is going to prepare for the day in a large
amount and it is generally cheaper then ordering something out of the
menu. It typically comes with a soup,
then a main plate, and a drink, and with luck in the islands a dessert. It was
like eating in Peru, there was first a fish soup, then a chicken dish with rice
and banana chips, and desert was a bowl of bananas and whipped cream. I thought it was delicious, especially since
the last month or so there had been problems in my house in Chipillico and I
was being served fried eggs at every meal!
Actually all the food was delicious in the Galapagos. I even got quesadillas one day, which I love!
We were so pleasantly surprised with prices of everything. On my previous trip to Machu Picchu I was so
disappointed at the price gouging and the complete taking advantage of the
tourist situation. I had just assumed
the Galapagos would be worse because Ecuador is a little more developed then
Peru and when you are typically trapped on an island they take advantage of the
tourists. Not in this case at all. Ecuador uses dollars and everything was
reasonably priced and cheaper than you would find in the United States, and
pretty good. We only went to one
restaurant where we were disappointed in the pizza, but I have found through
traveling that other countries are just discovering pizza and haven’t quite got
it right yet.
The last full day we discovered there was a part of Santa Cruz we had
missed, we asked and found we would have to take a water taxi to the part of
the island. The trail said it would take
us to “Las Grietas”, I didn’t know what this word meant, but now know it means
crack or crevasse. . We followed a trail, passing a beach and
other Laguna’s. It was a very
uncomfortable trail made of lava rocks; it wasn’t smooth and was difficult to
walk. Like I wrote previously, there is
no trying to make anything any easier, you just sort of have to deal with it as
it is. We reached what was my FAVORITE
part of the trip, a little cavern of crystal clear blue water. We climbed down into it, and found a place to
change between some rocks and my Dad and I climbed over very slippery and kind
of dangerous rocks to get in the water as my Mom took pictures. We arrived just as a family with their guide
was leaving. They said the water was
about 30 feet deep. Just standing there
looking down you could see the bottom.
My Dad and I swam from one end to the other, where I climbed over some
rocks and saw that there was another pool of water, and opened up into other
caverns. It was so cool! It would have been a great place to snorkel,
because as we were leaving I climbed up over rocks to look at it from above and
there were some large fish swimming around that we couldn’t see while we were
swimming. I just love when you find
something like that!
Before we knew it vacation was over and we were heading back to spend
one last night in Guayaquil, as my Mom had put it, it was a vacation where you
almost need another vacation to relax from this one. It was true, it was a nonstop adventure. Typically a vacation like that wouldn’t
interest me, but where else in the world can you just being standing there and
a wild bird comes and sits on your hand….in the Galapagos it happened!
We spent one last day in Guayaquil before my parents flew home that
night and I took my bus back to Piura.
We found a semi-touristy area, and climbed a big hill which was also a
neighborhood and there was a church up top and a look out to see the entire
city. But none of that was really
anything comparable to where we had just come from.
It was difficult to say goodbye to my parents as always. This time more than ever I just wanted to hop
on the plane with them and go home. My
time is so close to ending in Peru that I am ready to go back to the states.
Leaving them meant I was going back to my reality in Chipillico, a reality that
I am ready to come to an end. I feel
like my job is done here, and I have done all that I feel that I could to
contribute to Chipillico. I am ready for
the next chapter, which is already looking exciting; I can’t believe I will be
coming home to go shopping for my wedding dress and to finally hold my
beautiful new niece Emma! That seems so
surreal!
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